bunyonyi or bust

This is the place I had the pleasure of spending Easter weekend... And I think it ranks at the top of most beautiful places I've been. Luckily for my friends and I, Uganda celebrates Easter with a four day weekend, which gave us time to make the trek out to Lake Bunyonyi (in the southwest corner of the country, near the boarders of Congo and Rwanda). Some of us camped, some of us stayed in hut-like half domes that opened up to the lake. We went hiking, boating, and rope-swinging. It was pretty magical to be always surrounded by such beautiful sights.

I think what made Bunyonyi so stunning was that it seemed so unspoiled. Yes, there were tourists, but it felt different somehow... Like it hasn't been ruined yet by the tourist attention that it draws. It's things like the absence of guard-rails and trail markers and flashy billboards and swanky restaurants. I felt so spoiled by the weekend, but not because of the indulgences... but because of the time away spent with good friends and the amazing scenery that surrounded us.

It seems that we often have a tendency to want to mass-produce and package experiences like this... But what makes this on in particular so great is that it can't be done. Part of this is because of inaccessibility: I'm sure not everyone is willing to sit on a Ugandan bus for 10 hours to make it to a vacation spot. But for those who are, the trip is totally worth it. And the other factor is exactly what I said before about the unspoiled quality.... If people were herded in on cushy buses to see the lake, and the place was built up with high rises, I think it's development would be it's downfall.... Because so much of the draw to Lake Bunyonyi is it's untainted charm.

And I hope it stays just the way it is.

a world away

Today Uganda feels so far away... I'm in the States at the moment for my college-roommate's wedding. Going back and forth between the US and Uganda has always been an interesting experience.... they always feel like different worlds, but today I am experiencing an even stronger sense of that.

There are riots in Kampala right now. I heard about them yesterday (here's BBC article for more info), and honestly wasn't too concerned.... The presidential candidate who lost the election to the 25-year reigning Museveni was organizing some protests about the rising food and fuel prices. My roommates back in Kampala said that things were pretty tense and they heard gunshots throughout the day, but that just seemed like some of the post-election violence we experienced about a month ago.

Today was a different story though. The riots hit close to home: students at Makerere University began protesting rumored tuition increases. They started burning tires in the street and making a general ruckus... and not just on any street. But our street. Nanfumbambi Road. Apparently those acts were more fascinating than frightening, but then the police showed up to subdue the protesters and the intensity rose.

I got a full report of the events that took place in our neighborhood from Julie over skype this morning. I was sitting on the couch in College Station, Texas... about to leave for a manicure appointment with the other bridesmaids, and I was hearing stories about gunshots on our street and tear gas canisters that exploded on our compound.

My friends are all safe, just shaken up... But it was so strange for me being here, and them being there.... experiencing that.

So today, Uganda feels far.

the other shoe company

"Oh, so you're like TOMS Shoes?!" This is the response I often get when I tell people about the work I do with Sseko.

So I figured it was about time I did a post about TOMS Shoes.... For those of you who aren't familiar with TOMS, they are a shoe company that has a "one for one" policy: every time you buy a pair of shoes, they give a pair to a child in need. Sounds great, right? Style and a cause?.... I thought so too, when I first heard of TOMS. I bought a pair. Wore them proudly and spread the word. I even applied to be a summer intern with them (just fyi, I made it half-way through the selection process, but had to drop out because of another internship offer I accepted... so don't worry, this is not coming from disgruntled, rejected place). However, the more I learned about social business, economic development, and giving... the more I realize that I have some pretty serious issues with the TOMS business model.

Here's the first: what happens to local shoes salesmen in the places that TOMS drops shoes? The issue in these developing economies isn't access to shoes. There are shoes available in local shops in all of these countries. This issue is that parents can't afford to buy them for their kids. So shouldn't the solution to be helping the parents provide for their kids? I believe that some like providing vocational training or employment opportunities would do much more for the communities than free shoes. In fact, free shoes can be harmful to local economies. Who would buy shoes from a local salesman when they get them for free from TOMS?

{side note} Zambia is a classic example of the "free stuff" issue- they used to have a growing clothing manufacturing industry, but since the country started allowing containers of free second hand clothes to enter the country, all of the industry progress that had been made was shut down. Years later, there are now no textile or clothing manufacturers in the country. "The skills, the infrastructure and the capital of an entire industry are now virtually extinct" (quote from an interesting article). The country now has an abundance of low-priced, second hand clothes... but at what price? Maybe they can buy a 1998 Chicago Bulls Championship t-shirt for 50 cents, but what about all those potential jobs lost with the exit of a clothing manufacturing sector? ... I'm not saying that the impact of TOMS is this severe, but this is just an example of how giving things away can do more harm than good.

The second issue I take with TOMS is the issue of dignity. Since living in Uganda, I've come to realize how important it is for people to know that they have value, that they are capable, that they are people just like you and me. That's not the message I get though when I see well-off trendy white 20-somethings putting shoes on the feet of brown and black little kids. To me, this image just furthers the expectation that the white man will come in to save the day. This is a mindset that our company has tried to battle while working in Uganda. We try to preach the message that we believe in our girls, and that they are helping us just as much as we are helping them.

This conversation isn't new to the social-business scene.... but for those of you who aren't involved in that sector and are just the average consumer, my intention with this topic is to challenge the way you think about what you buy, and even to question the companies that appear to have a good cause. And I hope you don't get discouraged in this process. There are fantastic companies out there that making an amazing social impact on the world.

And with all my criticisms, I would like to say that I still believe that TOMS has good intentions... But I'd love to see them make some changes to their model, so they can be part of a movement that is truly allowing consumers to change the world we live in.

subtle but important

I just got home from a bus ride down from Gulu, and since my friends and I boarded the bus as it was pulling away from the bus-park, we did not have the pleasure of sitting together on the 5 hour trek back to Kampala. That being said, I had plenty of time for day dreaming and reflection about the weekend, conversations had, and recent experiences in Uganda.

I had a conversation with some friends while making dinner about how subtle, seemingly small cultural differences can actually have large implications. Language is one of those things. Even though English is spoken in Uganda and all of the Sseko-girls speak it fluently, I still tend to run into language barrier issues.

One of the biggest sources of frustration has become the lack of the word "please" in Ugandan English. I've been told that in African languages spoken here, the please is often implied with the tone, not as a spoken word, and that many sentences are said in a command form. It also might just be the case that growing up in a Southern home of yes-ma'ams and yes-sir's and thank you's and pleases has made me more sensitive to the lack of what I consider to be polite language. I get a lot of "You come here!" and "Bring that for me!" instead of "Come here, please" or even "Would you bring that for me?" The difference is important to me (and I think many Americans) because it ends up being a respect issue.

I was talking with some friends who work for similar socially-minded companies this past weekend about it, and the way that some of the women who work for us talk when they address us. Our initial reaction when some one tells me something in a command form is "who does she think she is?!" I feel bossed around and disrespected... But its pretty likely that this woman has no idea that I feel this way, because she thought she was being perfectly polite because before demanding something of me, she called me "Aunie Cameron." It's very important here to address "big" (ie important/respected) people appropriately... So I've come to regard the auntie thing sort of like an African "yes ma'am." They soften their speech with that form of respect instead of the one I'm used to. It still sounds harsh to my ears sometimes, but I'm trying to get used to and remember that recognizing this will keep me from taking unneeded offense.

And this is the case in other languages as well... when things are said in a different way that changes the connotation. For example, when living in Spain I realized that when people were explaining how a glass broke they said that it fell out of their hand, instead of saying they dropped it. My perception of this language difference is that it's shifting blame from the person to the glass.... but I don't think that is necessarily the case. Just because a Spaniard says it that way doesn't mean they are trying to shirk responsibility for the broken glass and say "Yeah, I don't know what happened... It just jumped out of my hand!" That may seem like a silly example, but I was reminded of it during our conversation last night... because the issue of language and connotation and intention seemed similar.

Whether something seems rude or irresponsible, sometimes its just a matter of understanding that you're speaking different languages... even when the language being spoken is English! And this has been an important lesson learned for many of us ex-pats.

"i want to buy a boda boda"

Before Ben and Liz left Uganda, we had a company farewell dinner, during which they asked Julie and I a few questions.... One of them was "What moment has been the most rewarding for you in your work with Sseko thus far?"

It didn't take me long to think of an answer. I was immediately reminded of a wonderful afternoon I spent helping all our women come up with personal financial plans. I know, I know... the words "wonderful afternoon" and "financial plans" shouldn't be in the same sentence. But let me explain myself.

In college I majored in finance, but it wasn't because I just loved the subject. It was because I thought that one day I could help people with it. I went through accounting classes, banking classes, investment analysis classes... the works. And I knew I wasn't going to enter a traditional financey-type-job. I wasn't going to work for a big four accounting firm, on Wall street, or the trading floor of and oil and gas company. I was going to work for a not-just-for-profit company in Africa. Were these skills I was learning in class going to translate? I didn't know for sure.... but I hoped.

Well, turns out they do. I was able to sit down with each of the girls and help them make up personal savings plans. I got to sit across the table from each of them and hear about their savings-dreams.... Amelia wants to save so she can buy her mom some furniture for their house. Betty wants to save so she can afford to stay in a dorm close to campus next semester. Allen wants to save so she can send her daughter to school. And Joyce, well Joyce's savings-dream was my favorite. Joyce wants to buy a boda boda- a taxi-type motorcycle that can be rented out to drivers and provide a steady stream of income for her and her family. It's going to take her about a year and a half to save for her boda, but I believe she can do it.

Making a plan to achieve your dreams makes them far less daunting and out of reach. And because of my education, I was able to help the girls set forth that plan.

Not everything I learned in school is applicable here... I've never had to look for arbitrage opportunities in the stock market and I've never had to analyze trends for a commercial bank.... but who actually gets to apply everything they learn in college anyways? I'm just thankful that I'm seeing opportunities to use my degree in finance for the betterment of the Sseko ladies... because it makes my education mean something to me. It makes me more thankful for it. And it makes me even more excited for these girls to receive university-level education as well.

it's the most wonderful time of the year

Just for the sake of consistency, I'm going to post another video. Because on the Sseko compound this is the most wonderful time of the year, and no picture would do today justice.

The most beautiful moment happened on our compound today: all of the new Sseko girls found out their exam results. Now let me explain something.... these exams are hardcore and determine so much for these girls. Think SAT's, but if you only got to take them once. And if only those scores determined which school you got into and what you got to study. That's a whole heck of a lot of pressure for an 18 year old girl to bear on her shoulders. And today, all that pressure was relieved.

Just to explain the video a little bit, the girls scores were sent to their school and then they were able to call in and get the numeric score for each section of the tests. I had the pleasure of being present for each of these moments, and I think that today will be a day I will always remember.... I started crying tears of joy and pride right along with these girls.

It's official. The Sseko girls are going to attend university in the fall. And I couldn't be more proud.

paper people production

It seems like it's becoming a week for video's on my blog... I'm not going to resist it, because I want to share a little production that Julie and I put together last weekend....

In case you're unaware, Julie and I made paper dolls out of the extra passport pictures we had of ourselves and our bosses (Ben and Liz). Every month or so, we give the paper people new outfits: Thanksgiving festive wear, birthday celebration clothes, and even company Polo's! We mostly use the paper people as a joke between our little team of Sseko employees, but Julie and I always get a huge kick out of making them and then having paper people photo shoots to send to Ben and Liz.

Well, this week we are doing a bit of promoting for our Summer 2011 internships, and naturally, Juls and I were called upon to get the paper people involved. I never would have thought that I would have a boss who would ask me to make a movie of paper dolls to kick off the promo for Summer interns, but that's just how company culture at Sseko is and I love it!

So here are the results of the fun Saturday afternoon Juls and I spent putting the paper people production together:

And THIS is the link to a blog post Liz wrote about the paper people. They are getting so much publicity these days! .... I hope it doesn't get to their heads.....

{p.s. I'll do a little shameless promoting: everyone should apply for the Sseko Internships! You too can be a paper person.... I solemnly swear to make one of your passport photo if you join team Sseko!}